A SHAG MAT FROM DENIM JEANS
I have a stack of old denim jeans, and although I have never made a rug of any type, I saw a small rug about 24" X 36" made with old denim, and I would like to make one - it looked like a shag rug of some sort. Can you provide information on directions, supplies and/on how I should proceed from here. Thanks for your assistance, Carol

Hi Carol, While there are lots of ways to make a shaggy rug, many of them are difficult with denim. The simplest way is to make a sewn shag rug on your sewing machine. Just cut strips on the bias, 2 or more inches wide and sew them in rows along a base fabric, which can also be denim. Old jeans will make a really nice looking rug since you'll have so many shades of blue. Hope that helps, Diana 

MAKING RUGS WITH T-SHIRTS 
You all have a beautiful and informative site. ( I call it the sexy rag rug site - which translates into : I want it all ) I have been threatening for years to make rag rugs. To this end I have been collecting (don't groan) cotton T-shirts. I can't help it. I love cotton and I'm not much of a dresser. My question is which would be the best rug to make with T-shirts? Thank you for any direction that you may provide. Ann 

Dear Ann, I won't groan... After all, rag rugs developed when women needed to make rugs from whatever they had on hand. Times have changed and T-shirt knits are what folks have on hand these days. In experimenting with them, I've found they have some very nice characteristics which make them a "friendly" material for beginners (they will curl up into neat little tubes if they are cut the right way-- which saves having to fold the strips). 

Anyway, the techniques I'd recommend for T-shirt knits are knitted rugs, "Hook-braided" (the 2-strand attached chain braid), tambour rugs, and broomstick rug. T-shirt knits also work for crocheted rugs, braided rugs, and string crochet (and some others), but I just don't think the rugs will last as long as those made with woven fabrics. T-shirt material isn't as resistant to abrasion.. I'm glad you're enjoying the website! Happy rugmaking! Diana 

WEAVING ON A PEGGED FRAME 
Hello, I have come across a frame type loom at an auction. It is rectangular, oak, 4ftX3ft and has about 3/4" pegs, all the way around it. I am hoping you can tell me what type of object this is. I have no experience with weaving and think it would be wonderful to learn and present it to my students. I hope to hear from you soon! Your site is fantastic! What would be the easiest rug for my 5-6th grade class to learn, along with the teacher? Thanks, Margo

Hi Margo, Lucky you! What you have is an old fashioned "pegged frame" for making hand woven rugs. There are several methods you can use it for, using just the pegs at opposite ends or the ones on all sides. It can also be used for diagonal weaves when you get a bit of experience and with several (slightly modified) weaving techniques. I'm currently working on a new handbook for the frame rugs which will include those methods. (UPDATE--See Rugmakers Handbook No. 2--Fabulous Rag Rugs from simple Frames.)

As for your students, the rug method I recommend most for young folks is the knotted shag, two-string method. They pick it up very quickly, have a ball, and can work in a lot of groups, each making a strip of knots which you then stitch together to make a 'community' project rug. The knotted shags can also be made with the "frame" method, which your frame will work on (there is a diagram in the bulletin showing you how to warp (string) the frame. Hope that helps, Diana 

THE SLIT METHOD OF JOINING STRIPS 
I have just started making rag rugs, I read about connecting rag strips by the snip and slip method. Can you explain this to me please. Or the best way of connecting. I have been stitching the ends together. Thanks Barbara

Hi Barbara, The snipping method is an old way of doing it, but it leaves little bumps in the rug-- this is how you do it. Cut a slot *near* the end of each strip (the one ending and the one you want to add on, which I'll call the 'new' strip). Slide the slotted end of the 'new' strip through the slot in the 'old' strip. Lace the end of the 'new' strip into the slot of the 'new' strip, and pull up the slack. That's all there is to it. It is quick which is why some people like it. 

However, the *best* way to join strips, without leaving a 'bump' is the bias-joint. Lay the two ends of the strips together at a right angle (90-degrees). Sew diagonally across from the two corners which are not part of the 'point'. Clip off the excess of the corner about 1/4 inch from the seam. When you open the strips out, the seam will run diagonally across the strip, spreading the bulk. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

MAKING A SHAGGY COTTON RUG
(Nancy sent a letter with photos of a 4' X 6' shaggy cotton rug, inquiring what sort of rug it was, how long it would take to make, and how much it would cost to make.) 

Hello Nancy, You letter with rug making questions arrived. The photo could be many different sorts of rugs. There are several techniques that will create a shaggy surface (prodded, knotted shags, sewn shags, shag crochet, shag knit, strung shags, etc.) The length of the strips will let you have any length shag you want in any of these rugs. And though cotton strips are most often used (either from old clothing or new yard goods) you can make shaggy rugs from nearly any type of fabric. 

If you do hooking or prodding to make the rugs, you'll want to get some good Scottish burlap for the backing, and yes, you can make them in smaller sections and join them together. 

It's hard to estimate cost on rugs like these. So much depends on where you buy the fabric. (You might watch for sales on flat sheets, they are often an excellent bargain on good quality fabric.) It's also hard to say how long it would take you to finish. If you work at it steadily in the evenings (and rugs make good winding-down work) you should be able to finish 1 large rug this winter I would think. Hope that helps, Happy Rugmaking, Diana

OTHER FABRICS FOR HOOKED RUGS 
Hi - I have ordered some info on rug hooking from you & got it & started! - the anchor hooking is great & I want to try more traditional hooking - but because I live in the Florida Keys (south of Miami) there isn't much wool to be found. I have lots of cotton fabric & old sheets - but when cutting into the 1/8 inch strips, on the straight grain, for traditional hooking, the fabric frays & looks bad. Should I cut on the bias to eliminate the fraying? Or should cotton not get used for traditional hooking? Thanks for you response, Patti 

Hello Patti, Lots of different fabrics can be used for traditional hooking with wonderful effects. Woven cottons *should* be cut on the bias, but they also should be cut not less than 1/4 inch wide since the narrower strips will pull back out too easily. There are other materials which you also can try. Novelty fabrics (rayon, nylons, metallics) make wonderful hooking material, but would be mostly for rugs which are used as wall hangings. For great useful rugs (especially where you live) try t-shirt knit cottons (or cotton blends). Cut them about 1/4 inch (or a bit wider), so that they curl into a neat little tube. Make some test cuts along the length of the fabric, and across the fabric to see which direction curls the best. If you can get yard goods in white or a natural color, and wash it, the 100% cotton knits will take up dye very nicely so you can get just the colors you want too. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

RUGS FROM OLD TOWELS 
Hi. I have a lot of old terry cloth towels. I was wondering if they could be used to make a braided rug. Kay 

Hi Kay, I wouldn't really recommend terry towels for a braided rug... It could be done, but they'd be a real pain to handle for a good braid. Instead I'd suggest you look at the string crochet. With that technique the towels would make a terrific bathmat. However, towels are absorbent so make sure that the rug has a chance to get dry between uses. Hope that helps, Diana 

PAINTED ON RUG BACKING
Hi, I would like to know if you sell latex backing that can be 'painted' on the back of a rug to make it non-slip? I have heard of this but have not been able to find it. Thanks for any information you can send. Jean

Dear Jean, No, we don't sell it, and really suggest you don't use it on anything except a discount store rug which doesn't have lasting value. It can cause permanent damage to handmade rugs. What we do recommend is an expanded rubber mat, which works well to keep rugs in place, but isn't permanently attached. These are available from the Harry M. Fraser Co. (see links). Hope that helps, Diana  (UPDATE--now available at most big box home improvement stores and online)

IDENTIFYING SOME RUGS 
I was recently at a local historical site and was fascinated by the rug-making I saw there. One of the styles I recognize on one of your web pages as a frame woven rug. The other was a type of toothbrush rug. She used a classic buttonhole stitch with her rag laced through the toothbrush hole. Is this rug mentioned on your site, and if so, what type of toothbrush rug is it? Thank you, Jean 

Hi Jean, The rug you saw was an "Amish Knot" rug, which uses the toothbrush (or a lacing needle) with the buttonhole (aka blanket) stitch. It is not "technically" a toothbrush rug, and much simpler in construction. We do have a bulletin on the Amish Knot. Happy rugmaking! Diana 

BACKING FOR A CROCHETED YARN RUG 
Dear Diana I have just completed a crocheted large rectangular rug. It is crocheted with regular crochet yarn. Can you tell me what kind of backing would be best on this type of rug and what kind of spray would be best to put on the top to make it stain and dirt resistant. Thank you so much for your help. Cheryl 

Hi Cheryl, Before you use the rug, get a good "Scotch Guard" type of spray and follow the directions for it on both sides of the rug. I don't usually recommend a backing on crocheted rugs, since the dirt falls through the holes, and the backing will hold onto it. If you want a bit of stiffening so it doesn't bunch up and skitter around, here's what you can do. Get a piece of heavy canvas or denim, and hem it so that it is about an inch smaller all around than your rug. Buy a roll of velcro tape, and using only the 'hook' piece (not the fuzzy), put 2" pieces all over the backing fabric. The "hook" tape will hold onto the yarn, but will still let the rug peel off for shaking, turning over, etc. Hope that helps, Diana